A different usual – Ooty/ Coonoor

We had a long weekend for Ugadi (Hindu New Year) and didn't want to be in Bangalore (27-30 Mar '09). Sharan, in addition, was keen to get back to his photography practice. Ooty and Coonoor – the twin hill stations in the Nilgiri range of the Western Ghats seemed to be the ideal choice given the distance by road and (more importantly) fine weather. On one hand I was skeptical - Ooty had gotten too commercialized over the past years and wasn't a "get-away" in the real sense. On the other hand it was around 9 years since I had been there last. Additionally we had never been to Coonoor. Since we decided and booked in the last minute we got accommodation in 3 different places for the 3N-4D vacation. No cribbing on this one as each place was unique in its own way - First at Destiny's Farm (Avalanche Valley, 30 kms off Ooty), next at King’s Cliff (in Ooty) and lastly at Taj Gateway Hotel (Coonoor).

Note: Destiny Farm and King’s Cliff are part of Little Earth Group (http://www.littlearth.in/)

Fact File:
Distance: Ooty by Road - Coimbatore (80Kms), Bangalore (275 Kms).
Getting there: There are ample of buses and trains from either of the cities. Nearest Airport is Coimbatore.
Best season: February through May, September-October
Know more from:http://www.nilgiris.tn.gov.in/OOTY.HTM or http://www.nilgiris.tn.gov.in/Coonoor.htm

In and around Ooty:
We didn’t go to ANY of the typical tourist attractions (Botanical garden, Centenary Rose Park, Ooty Lake, Doddabetta, etc) as we had been here earlier. Instead we visited the not so popular tourist destinations like the Bee Museum and Green Shop of Keystone foundation. Keystone Foundation is known as an organisation concerned with honey management and marketing for communities (Kurumba and Toda tribes in Nilgiris for e.g.,) without compromising the sustainability of bee's community itself. (http://keystone-foundation.net/web/).

We also visited the Wax World – a private wax museum that has been the poor man's Indian Madame Tussades for years. We had never heard or seen it before. The museum included statues of usual and famous Indian personalities like Mahatma Gandhi, J. Nehru, Mother Teresa, Shivaji, Subhas Chandra Bose among others. Some of the wax statues were hilarious, some terrible and a few were very creative.

We drove around Red Hills and Avalanche Valley – very picturesque hill ranges with acres and acres of tea estates (literally till you can see the horizon) and many unspoiled lakes and ponds all around. But its very disheartening to see that forest area has been cut down for these tea estates.

We tried a couple of very popular restaurants which came recommended – Earl’s Secret at King’s Cliff on Havelock Road (Continental – Very good) and Shinkhow on Commissioner's Road (Chinese – disappointing, may be we didn't order right)

In and around Coonoor:
Acres Wild – is a 22 acre, family-run organic and (homemade) cheese making farm. Their goal is to shape an eco-friendly, holistic and self-sustaining life style for themselves and share this experience with others in hope that others adopt it too. (http://www.acres-wild.com/). This place is run Mansoor Khan and family. His wife, Tina, excitedly explains the process of cheese making. She said she started this only because of her love for Cheese. Cheese can be bought from outlets in Ooty or Coonoor. Mansoor, an avid environmentalist, not only passionately shows around his environment-friendly farm but also keeps you gripped with his views on the global warming phenomenon. Rhea, the darling pet around, is as enthusiastic as Mansoor to show the place.

We never realized that it was Mansoor Khan who was the director of popular Bollywood movies like QSQT, JJWS, AHAT (all with Aamir Khan), Josh (with SRK) and co-producer of Jaane Tu Ya Jane Na (with Imran Khan). Apparently he is Aamir Khan's cousin and Imran Khan's uncle. Shows how much of Bollywood we know. Mansoor moved to Coonoor from Mumbai after being fed up with city life.

We shopped at NeedleCraft (in Singara Tea Estate) - known for its exquisitely hand-embroidered pillowcases, cushion covers, bedspreads, bedsheets and handkerchiefs. Though they are steeply priced, Naaz (the owner) insists that she is just selling on behalf of various local women's welfare organizations and proceeds go to their betterment.

We went to some typical touristy places since it was our first time in Coonoor:
- Railway Station: A quaint little station famous for the Niligiri Mountain Railway. The toy train runs between Ooty-Coonoor-Mettupalyam through the pristine Nilgiri mountain range.
- SIM'S Park: Botanical Garden in Upper Coonoor with trees as old as 150 years and haven for bird watchers
- Laws Falls: 7kms towards Mettupalayam, worth a skip
- Dolphin’s nose view point: 10kms, has a panoramic view of Catherine Falls
- Lamb's rock view point: 8kms, on the way to Dolphin’s
- Droog Fort: 17 kms, Old Tipu Fort of which only a couple of Walls are remaining, drive to Nonsuch Tea Estate and walk 4 kms through it

Note: Take your vehicle to Droog Fort only if it’s an SUV as the roads quite bad. It’s a beautiful 1 hour walk (one way) for those who prefer it.

Unlike Ooty, there aren’t any restaurants in Coonoor. You may land up eating in the resort/hotel you are staying at. But we did ask some locals around for some typical Tamil food and they directed us to a no-frill restaurant called “Hotel Sri Lakshmi Veg” (off Coonoor Bus Stand). As assured by these locals, we had typical and very delicious Tamil Thaalis. It was a welcome break from days of North Indian, Continental and Chinese food we had during the trip.

So the usual destinations turned out to be a good decision afterall. We saw parts of Ooty never seen before and Coonoor turned out to be a "must return to" place. There are too many in that list already and another much much longer list of "must visit before Armegaddon"... Wonder when and how we'll ever cover everything... *SIGH*.

Here is a link to our photo album:http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/sredir?uname=akshatakaranth&target=ALBUM&id=5319718423183780881&authkey=Gv1sRgCIeExsyxmc2EQw&invite=COW4rtoF&feat=email

Chronicles from Wayanad Trip – Part III

2 of the 4 day trip had passed. We decided to make use of resort facilities at least on the following day which was Monday, 1st June 2009. After breakfast, I wanted to hit the pool. After all I had to make use of my newly learnt techniques from Nisha’s classes. Sachin took Vishnu into the kiddy pool. But Vishnu seemed perturbed by the attention he got from other in the pool and got out. So Sharan, Sachin and I headed to the other pool. The rest of them were lazing around the pool. The hammocks were put to good use and so were the novels and iPODs.

Gummi and others then wanted to go for a short trek (more of a nature walk). The guide who was also the Assistant Manager at the resort agreed to take us during his break at 12:30PM. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to go – it was hot and also the path was full of Leeches (as warned by the guide). Moreover I had just swum for an hour. But seeing everyone’s enthu, I agreed. Sachin was well equipped as usual with Leech resistant spray and all of us used generous amounts of it all over our feet and even legs. The path turned out to be uphill all the way amidst thick trees sparing us from the Sun but not from the stress and strain. We kept taking breaks to get rid of the slimy leeches which Sharan and I used as breathers. The rest seemed unperturbed with the slope (60-75 degrees). Our guide had thoughtfully carried half kilogram of salt which we kept using. While all of us were cursing the leeches, he assured all of us that the walk would be worth it. And so it did – the view point (as our guide called it) was stunning overlooking greenery, hills and water bodies all over! After a good break, we got back to the resort for a very late lunch.

Tip: Leeches fall off if salt is sprinkled on them

With enough of outdoor activities for the day, we decided to just chill out for rest of the day. A good snooze and everyone was set for the night. We spent time at the “activity centre” celebrating Rafa’s shocking exit from 09 French Open and playing various games. Vishnu was insistent on playing too. But he had only 2 rules – he wouldn’t pick up the ping pong from the floor or play chess on the chess board. So everyone was reluctantly playing with him taking turns. Shruthi and Ramy played table tennis thinking it was a Hodhralli Tournament (their hometown) – only that they thought it was badminton played with TT racquets and at the TT table. I couldn’t play because of a strained back else even I would’ve got sniggered at. I refused to play carom as I am extremely bad at it as well. So Sharan reminded Gummi how bad she was at Carom during a once-off game. I am glad I found a match in Gummi. We both should play the great losers ever tournament to see who is worse. Sachin and Zo completely forgot to stay back till midnight to wish Shruthi for her birthday, ignoring our desperate pleas through different expressions and retired for the day around 11:00PM. The rest of us just about managed to stay awake with difficulty to wish Shruthi who was herself dozing off.

We were to return to Bangalore on 2nd. So after breakfast, everyone quickly packed up, settled the bill and left the resort. There was 1 group who wanted to visit the Banasura Sagar Dam as it is an earthen dam (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banasura_Sagar_Dam). The other group wanted to shop for sarees, carpets, spices and what not! We agreed to split and meet in time for lunch before heading back to Bangalore. Sharan, Shruthi and I naturally chose the Dam over shopping. The drive was pretty winding but luckily Wayanad Roads are pretty good at least. It was a approximately 30 KMS from the Resort. When we finally reached, we had to park our car and walk towards the bridge after paying token entrance free (Rs.10/-). The view was exquisite especially with low hanging clouds above the dam. We stayed there for about 15 mins enjoying the scenery and trying various angles with the camera. We met the rest of the gang at a restaurant where we gorged on freshly cooked, aromatic Kerala Thalis.

Sachin suggested that we take an alternate route back to Bangalore which was through Kabini and apparently more scenic than the one we came by. It was then unanimously decided that it would be the route to take. But we all were in for a RUDE SHOCK. We reached the Rajiv Gandhi National Park (turned out to be Nagarahole) to see that roads were extremely bad – in fact I have never seen worse roads till date. The pot holes were more like craters – a foot deep at least. We struggled through this park as we couldn’t drive over 20 KMS per hour. The bad roads led to sharp pains in my lower back which was already strained from before. Half way through the park, I couldn’t take the pain anymore. We had to stop in the middle of the forest to rest it before we resumed our way. We finally reached Mysore late evening but decided to stop at Maddur Café Coffee Day for our break. A quick halt for bite and refreshing, and we were back on the Mysore-Bangalore Highway. We reached Bangalore around 11:00PM dead tired from the horrendous journey. But it didn’t dampen our spirits as we had an enjoyable and memorable holiday.

Here is a link to the complete the picasa album:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/sredir?uname=akshatakaranth&target=ALBUM&id=5347875628401692225&authkey=Gv1sRgCP2J-fjl5OKOwQE&authkey=Gv1sRgCP2J-fjl5OKOwQE&invite=CJDbqKMC&feat=email

Chronicles from Wayanad Trip – Part II

A scrumptious breakfast at Mylari (in Mysore) en route Wayanand set stage for our holiday. We took a good 3 hours to cross Bandipur forest and reach Sultan Bathery town. In hope of sighting wild animals, we drove at 20kms per hour much to Zo’s annoyanace who was keener to chill out at the resort. We managed to spot A Monkey and A Myna in our journey through the reserve area - so much for our enthusiasm.

We had booked cottages at Blue Ginger Resort in Vythiri (http://www.wayanadresorts.com/). We reached the base camp and were asked to park our vehicles there. The resort’s arranged for vehicles to take us uphill to the actual resort. We found out that this arrangement is only because there is NO ROAD to reach the resort. It’s just an uneven path all the way. So after a tiring and bouncy ride, we reached the resort just before lunchtime ended. We just explored and chilled out at the resort for rest of the day.

Fact File: Nearest Airport and Railway Station is Kozhikode (Calicut). Distance from Calicut is 75 KMS, Mysore is 150 KMS and Bangalore is 275 KMS. More information is available at http://www.wayanad.nic.in/ or http://www.wayanad.net/

The resort by itself is very picturesque. Set on top of a mountain and opposite Chembra peak (Highest peak in Wayanad), it’s true to the essence of Wayanad and Kerala – greenery all around. Absolutely beautiful! They have walking paths all around and leading to a natural cascade and pool which then goes downstream. The higher end cottages are built on stilts over this stream. They have other cottages overlooking the Chembra peak as well. They have managed to maintain 2 pools – one with a kiddy pool attached and one without. Food is just above average, serving standard buffets for all meals. They have indoor activities like table tennis, carom and chess. As expected, Kerala Ayurvedic massages are also available (we didn’t avail this service though). As part of their outdoor activities, they organize for short nature walks or sight-seeing.

Note: The resorts are rigid about timings and also availability of eatables

Since Sharan and I had been to Wayanad before, we didn’t want to do the usual sight-seeing (Edakkal Caves, Wayanad Heritage Museum, Kuruva dweep, Pookot lake, or Thirunelly temple). Others agreed luckily. So we decided to explore the Jain temples of Wayanad next day. I had read about on the net.

We started with the Jain temple at Sultan Bathery – the town named after this temple. This temple is now managed by ASI (Archeology Survey of India). The guide/caretaker mentioned that it was initially a Hindu Shrine (around 13th Century AD), which then became a Jain Temple and eventually a store where Tipu Sultan stocked his ammunition. The name Battery (means ammunition store) was thus derived. Over years “Battery” became “Bathery”. On enquiring about the other Jain temples, the guide directed us to Punchavayal and Puthanangadi.

We got to the next Jain temple after asking around for directions. The temple ruin is located in a remote coffee estate and is not visible from the main road. The wild surrounding made the place quite eerie I admit but it just added to the scenic beauty of this temple. The main deity was either stolen or destroyed. The inner sanctum sanctorum was dark and dingy. Though mentioned as a Jain temple, there were no evident signs of it being one. We saw carvings of Lord Vishnu in various forms around this small temple ruin.

Note: Though locals are very helpful, language barrier can make it difficult

We then headed to the last Jain temple. Though this was situated on the main road, we still had to ask for directions many times. It was adjoining a private tea estate. The temple turned out to be bigger, grander and more picturesque than the previous one. It had a grand entrance leading to a performance stage which was in front of the temple. Just architecture was similar to the previous temple but had more carvings. The temple complex also had a sit-out area.

Both the temples have not been maintained by ASI and hence the ruins look mystical amidst the wild. Totally thrilled with the untouched beauty, we ended up feeling that we were in an Indiana Jones movie and have just discovered some lost temples. We finally headed back to the resort just as it was getting dark after a day very well spent.

Chronicles from Wayanad Trip – Part I

Sharan’s cousin Gummi (Rama) asked us both to organize a trip as it was more than 2 years since the last one (Hampi, March’07). We chose beautiful Wayanad for its close promixity and beauty at the onset of Monsoon. The usual suspects (Gummi, Vishnu, Rohit, Ramya, Sachin, Shruthi, Sharan and I) immediately agreed as half of them hadn’t been to the place.

We set off early morning of 30/June, a Saturday. Though we initially thought of taking only 2 cars since we were 8 of us, all the “boys” wanted drive so we landed up taking 3 of them (waste of natural resources, I pointed out in vain). We agreed breakfast would be in Mysore though there were options in abundance énroute.

This was supposed to be the only breakfast destination but hunger and nature’s call landed us in “Café Coffee Day”, just off Maddur on Mysore Road. It’s an ideal place to visit while travelling early in the morning. Steaming hot and fresh coffee coupled with the fact that they have clean toilets (flipside of road trips otherwise) are the appealing when you think of a “CCD” on the highway. But Sharan and I love this place ever since they started serving fresh breakfast, thanks to the competition around them. Choose from Nano idlis with Chutney and thick Tamil Sambar or Masala Dosas or Aloo Paratas or Omelets apart their usual menu of sandwiches, muffins, etc

We reached our “original” and 2nd breakfast destination around 9:00am hoping that we won’t be turned down for being late at this small but busy hotel. We have been told by numerous travelers that Hotel Mylari Original in Mysore is THE place to eat authentic Mysore Masala Dosa. It turned out to be good advice after all. Story goes that this is where it all originated but I haven’t got it cross-verified though.

The dosa here is crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. Generous amount of Chutney (Indian coconut sauce) is served along side and the size of the dosa is small enough to order another oneJ. Additionally, the Idli-Chutney (rice dumpling with coconut sauce) available there is equally mouth watering. People who know me know that Idli is by far my most favorite breakfast item. I end up eating Idli at most restaurants whether in Bangalore or Karnataka or South India. After having tasted Idlis in numerous joints, I must admit I haven’t tasted any idli which is as soft as the ones available at Mylari (not Brahmins or Veena Stores in Bangalore). With such finger licking good breakfast, one will end up feeling sad for their stomach getting filled up so fast.

Address: Hotel Original Mylari, #79, Nazarbad Main Road, Mysore – 570010.

With enough binging for the morning, we then headed towards Wayanad all excited at the thought of a remote possibility of sighting one of the wild cats while passing through Bandipur.